![]() IMPACT PROTECTION – Comes with a built-in, heavy-duty, full rubber overmold housing designed to act like a roll cage - ensuring excellent protection of the laser when dropped hard on the ground. LONG BATTERY LIFE – Built in VisiMax technology monitors power consumption to maximize line visibility and effectively extend battery life. Smart pendulum automatically self-levels up to 4°, indicates out-of-level condition by blinking the lights to ensure you always have the utmost accurate leveling measurement. SELF LEVELING – Integrated magnetic mount rotates 360° for easy, full coverage of the room anywhere. for up/down plumb, align and level applications (the bottom point’s accuracy is ☑/4 In. GREEN-BEAM, 125 FT – 4x brighter than red laser for optimal visibility in indoor and partially outdoor jobsites. Please see the GLL100GX model or similar for cross-line options. CAUTION: This is a point laser, not a cross line laser. ![]() This highly accurate dot point laser is ideal for construction projects that require squaring up layout walls and transferring / aligning plumb points. We get the hinge side perfect and then install 2 spreaders to the lockside.I level the head and then double check with a framing square to the side jambs.It's a tough fix if one of these jambs gets in out of whack.An old carpenter (I am one now)once that everybodies level reads different but everybodies plumb bob reads the same.5 POINT LASERS - Projects 5 bright green dots on top, bottom, left, right, and in front. I would not use anything but a plumb bob.In this case the plumb bob hangs in a long metal tube with a powerful magnet on the top that holds it to the jamb.It's unaffected by wind. You knew pretty quickly if things weren't right if both jamb legs weren't sitting on the floor or if the door closed by itself without benefit of closer.In the past several years I've been supervising commercial jobs with most of the jambs being steel with abutting masonry. The margin around the door and the trims relationship to adjacent surfaces were the governing factors. I've hung more inteior doors in my life(prehung) without plumb bob or level-not saying that's the way to do it but it was the reality of tract work and high production.I don't ever recall having a call back. it had better be right or the door-dude is in trouble after the Framer is long gone. With wood, cutting down is always an option. That last item was a new one to the framer: he said all he's ever done is level the header to which I showed him "if the jambs are both plumb, x-sited and in-line, then square the header to the done-deal-jambs and 'yer done & good". ![]() ![]() Cross-sighted with strings, used the Super's levels to double-check and even used the 3' & 4' Glaziers Squares (Lufkin makes the best!)I borrowed to him to 2x check the header. Our recent completed hospital in Mesa AZ was a near-perfect HM Frame install from the Framer. Plumb with difficult jambs and offset pivots, then double check with both the 'extend'a levels and our Stabila's. Having said that I use both when hanging our own woodframes. The cost (just over $200) for the set creates goodwill for me, and provides the Super with an easy method of double-checking the Stud Framer. When we're starting a new commercial job, I always make a gift to the Super of a brand new Jamber set from Stabila.
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